The timing for the second day was pretty much the same as the previous,
with the 10:00 objective to be on the road. As I had been planning travel times
of no more than 6 hours, I wanted to be sure to arrive no later than 16:00 at
our destinations. This would allow for ample time to settle in and relax a bit,
and avoid at all costs driving at dusk.
With our stomachs feeling fine, we filled up with a big breakfast and
then went to see if there was any news from Avis. As there was nothing, the car
was loaded and we set off along the Skeleton Coast.
This area is quite well known for its rugged and very dangerous coast,
littered with shipwrecks. It is barren and flat, often subject to fogs rolling
in, and this morning was no exception. No matter, the fog was not very thick,
and with the sun fully up, the lingering humidity was being burnt away. That
was when we came across one of the more recent shipwrecks that was very visible
from the road.
Clearly it has become a popular spot as they have even prepared a road
out on the beach to get closer to the wreck. We were not alone taking pictures
this morning, which as it turns out was a good thing. With the local hawkers
busy with the other group of cars, we were able to grab some shots and quickly
get back on the road.
A little bit further on we reached what is pretty much the last village
on this coast until you then reach Angola: Henties Bay. If you continue on the
Skeleton Coast from here, the road becomes very rough, and eventually only
passable with a proper 4x4 vehicle. We were not to attempt this, and instead
took a 90° turn inland towards Uis.
Here the road heads in a very straight line straight in to the desert,
and as you leave the coast the temperature quickly goes up to nearly 40°.
Although it is a gravel road, it is in good condition, but it can sometimes be
difficult to tell where the roadside ends and the desert begins. As we have
gotten used to, there is very little traffic, but we do meet some very
courageous motorcycle riders toughing it out in the heat and the dust. I bet
they will be glad when they finally reach Swakopmund!
There is not much wildlife in this very arid area, but we do come
across a group of ostriches at some point, before we finally reach the small
village of Uis. I haven’t pointed this out earlier, but one thing to be careful
of when driving in Namibia is to ALWAYS fill up your tank when you see a
service station, and there happens to be one in Uis. I am not overly concerned
about the fuel though, as our car has an autonomy of some 800km, and I know
that none of my planned routes exceed 400km by much, but still it is always
better to be safe than sorry.
So, we pull in to the station and fill the car with diesel. Since there
is also a small rest area with some cover, we take the opportunity to have our
lunch, consisting of a ham sandwich and a banana. Oh, and some more water! It
is very hot at this point, and as soon as you switch of the AC in the car, or
step outside, you immediately start sweating profusely. Because of the heat we
decide not to linger, and are soon back on the road heading in the direction of
Khorixas.
On the way we see in the distance the Mount Brandberg with the White
Lady paintings. These are some primitive rock paintings, that we agree not to
go and visit as it would require a strenuous hike in the sweltering heat.
Besides, I am eager to get to the Mowani Lodge in order to settle down with a
nice cool drink.
We are on the C35 road, and normally should continue on this one for a
while longer, but our TomTom tells us to turn off on the D2319. Checking the
map, I see that this may be a bit of a shortcut and decide to follow the advice
of the GPS. It turns out to be a great decision as although this part of road
is very isolated, it brings us through an amazing area of red rock formations
in the desert which is inhabited by desert elephants. We do not actually get to
see the elephants, but the scenery is simply stunning, and we just have to stop
for a while to take it all in, and take some photos.
We go through a settlement called Sorris-Sorris, before reaching again
the C35, and then turning on to the D2612 which will take us to the Mowani
Lodge. This area is called Damaraland, and is one of the more scenic areas of
Namibia, and in my opinion of the world. The red sand, littered with red rock
formations is so pristine it almost looks like something out of a movie set.
The place looks a little bit like Monument Valley, although the peaks are not
quite as tall as they are in Arizona. I am reminded a bit of Wadi Rum in Jordan
as well, a place I knew well as a kid, and feel right at home.
Soon we arrive at the Mowani Lodge, and get settled in our permanent
tent cabin. There is no AC, and so it is quite hot, and although we are a bit
concerned about how it will be at night, the view from our room makes it all
worthwhile. I think to myself that I could not have chosen a better place to
end the first half-century of my life.
The lodge has a swimming pool, and we figure this is the best way to
cool down and relax. At the pool we meet up with a couple that have just
arrived from Etosha, and so we talk a bit about what they saw while there. It
turns out there seems to be loads of leopards in the eastern part of the Park!
That certainly sounds promising.
Strange rock paintings?
We settle in for sundowners, with a stunning view over the vast arid
plains, and the setting sun in the distance. The red sand and rock formations
of the area only serve to make the sight even more impressive, and we witness
together one of the most beautiful sunsets one can possibly see.
Dinner is served in the lodge’s restaurant, and is a nice piece of
tournedos. Unfortunately it is a bit over-cooked, probably a result of the
German influence on the cooking. We had asked for rare, but the meat is more
like well-done. This is something to remember for the future so that we ensure
to ask for proper rare steaks!
No internet or phone connection is bliss, and we end up going to bed
unusually early. Tomorrow is my birthday and the day we are set to arrive in
Etosha. This turns out to be the perfect relaxing stop on the journey before
the excitement begins, and more than worth it to make the effort of driving
here.
The sun setting on my 50 years...
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